Basil is essentially considered as a superstar when it comes to the culinary world, especially Continental food.

It is used as a fresh or dried spice, garnish, or in the case of pesto sauce, the main ingredient.

Apparently, in making a good and savory pesto sauce, you will need plenty of basil leaves, ideally huge, healthy ones. But, how are you supposed to do that if your basil plant is only producing small, thin leaves?

Don’t lose hope just yet because in this article we will discuss one by one the possible causes of why your basil is producing small leaves and what you can do to troubleshoot this growing problem so you can finally make the most delicious pizza, salad, and pasta for your friends and family.

Some of the most common causes that your basil plant is growing small leaves are an insufficient supply of sunlight, growing in a small container, underwatering or overwatering, an inadequate amount of nutrients, or other basil growing problems and diseases.

Quick Diagnosis: Why Your Basil Leaves Are Small

Leaves small but green → Incorrect pruning or overcrowding

Leaves pale or yellowish → Nitrogen deficiency

Tall stems, tiny leaves → Not enough sunlight

Healthy plant, tiny leaves → Basil allowed to flower

Why Basil Leaves Stay Small in Containers?

Container-grown basil often develops smaller leaves because nutrients are depleted quickly and roots become crowded.

If your basil is in a pot, refresh the soil every season and ensure adequate drainage. Repotting alone can dramatically improve leaf size.

Causes of small basil leaves

1. Insufficient supply of sunlight

What to look out for:

Yellowish and shedding leaves

What to do:

Since sunlight is one of the major requirements of basil in order to survive, exposing it to little to no amount of sunlight can affect its entire growth. At the beginning, you will notice its leaves start to turn into yellow. Eventually it will shed and possibly die. If it does survive, it has a huge tendency of producing only small basil leaves.

In order to prevent these from happening, make sure to expose your basil a sufficient amount of sunlight, preferably 6 to 8 hours everyday. Exposing your basil to direct sunlight will also allow your plant to thrive as it grows better in warmer conditions.

If you have limited space outside of your home, artificial light can also be a good light source. Place an incandescent light, preferably fluorescent directly above your plant.

2. Growing in a small container

What to look out for:

Crowded plants and overflowing roots

What to do:

If you notice that your basil plant is not fully growing or the leaves are not getting any bigger, it is possibly because your container is not big enough to encourage your plant to grow further. A small container restricts the roots of your plants to spread, thus prevents it from distributing more nutrients which a plant with larger leaves would require. 

To address this concern, you will need to transfer your basil in a much larger container where it can maximize its growth and allow your plant to produce large, healthy leaves.

3. Underwatering or overwatering

What to look out for:

Wilted leaves, drought/soggy soil

What to do:

No matter how much sunlight you provide your basil with, if you do not give it the ample amount of water it needs, you will still end up having small basil leaves. Make sure not to underwater or overwater your plant to encourage its vigorous and healthy growth.

To fix this, water your basil as needed. Fortunately, basil is not that high maintenance when it comes to watering. Water your basil only when the soil is dry to touch, but not too dry that the plant is close to dying.

4. Inadequate amount of nutrients

What to look out for:

Dry, small leaves; hard, dried soil

What to do:

Lack of sufficient nutrients is a huge factor why your basil plant is not producing large leaves and there are many elements that may be contributing to it. It could be because you planted your basil in poor quality soil, you’re not feeding it with enough fertilizer, etc.

Basil may considerably be a low maintenance plant but like any other herbs and plants, it also requires more nutrients to sustain its growth. So, if you want to see larger leaves on your next harvest, see to it that you supply your basil with an adequate amount of nutrients.

Read more about Basil

Everyone Can Grow Basil Using Seeds

6 Reasons Why Your Basil Keep Dying

Why Is My Basil Leaves Turning Yellow, And How To Fix It?

How To Harvest Basil Without Killing The Plant?

Other basil growing problems and diseases

Aside from producing small leaves, basil is also prone to other growing problems and diseases brought by different kinds of causes. There’s the inappropriate growing conditions, pests and insect infestation, human error, etc.

Here we will discuss each of these problems one by one and at the same time identify how they can be addressed.

1. Root Rot

Due to excessive water and poor drainage, the roots of your basil plant exhibits a specific kind of fungal diseases. As the root rots, it becomes slimy and loses its color and eventually it turns to black. When this happens, it is best that you lay off the watering for a moment until the soil has completely dried up; otherwise, root rot can kill your entire basil plant.

2. Downy Mildew

One of the common diseases in plants is downy mildew. You will know that your basil plant has caught this when you notice that the leaves are turning yellow and there are some evident grey growth on the underside. To fix this, you will need to move your basil in an area with better air circulation to keep the leaves dry. You can also take this time to remove the damaged yellow leaves from the plant to avoid the other healthy ones from being infected.

3. Pests

If not properly protected, your basil plant can be destroyed by different kinds of pests. There’s aphids, whiteflies, snails, nematodes, flea beetles, etc. These pests feast on basil leaves, roots, and stems, leaving your plant seriously damaged.

Spraying some pesticides or insecticides can help prevent this kind of growing problem. If you are concerned about the harsh chemicals they contain, you may opt to go for organic resistant sprays that are way healthier and safer.

4. Nitrogen deficiency

Nitrogen deficiency is one of the concerns that many basil owners fail to consider. Once the soil’s nitrogen level decreases it can cause your plant to wilt and may disrupt its overall growth. You can fix this problem by feeding your plant with nitrogen rich fertilizer but be cautious not to apply more than the required amount.

5. Bacterial Infection

The bacteria that thrives in your basil plant may result in what is commonly known as leaf spot. This plant disease looks exactly as it sounds, causing spots and streaks onto the leaves and stems. This bacterial infection is due to overhead watering and damp foliage. To prevent this, you could practice watering at the surface of the soil and do this in the morning so the leaves will have the entire day to dry out.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does cutting basil make leaves bigger?
Yes. Proper pruning redirects energy into leaf growth, resulting in larger leaves.

Why are my basil leaves small but healthy?
This usually indicates incorrect pruning or overcrowding rather than disease.

Can basil recover after producing small leaves?
Absolutely. Basil is resilient and responds quickly once conditions improve.

Tips on growing basil properly

Problems like producing small, thin leaves, pest infestation, bacterial infection, etc. are just some of the growing conditions many gardeners experience in growing their own basil plant. While these problems are sometimes beyond your control, you can still avoid your basil plant from being totally damaged by following these tips below:

1. Keep the soil moist

Basil thrives well in a moist soil. If you happen to be growing your herb in a relatively drier area, you might need to water your basil more often. Mulching is also a good strategy to help keep the moisture in.

2. Provide your basil with sufficient amount of sunlight

Exposing your basil to full sun for about 6 to 8 hours everyday can help maximize your plant’s growth and encourage it to produce healthy and huge leaves. Fortunately, being an adaptable plant that it is, basil can also tolerate partial sun or shade.

3. Make sure that you grow your basil in well draining soil

While basil grows well in moist soil, it is still important for you to grow it in a bed or container that has good drainage, otherwise the excess water retained underneath will cause root rot which is one of the common diseases that kill many types of plants.

4. Prune your lettuce regularly

Prune or harvest your basil regularly to encourage quicker and healthier growth. Ideally, you can start pruning your basil once a branch has already 6 to 8 pieces of leaves.

5. Practice companion planting

You can help improve the taste of your basil by planting it near a tomato plant. These two crops are known to be mutually beneficial with each other. Conversely, keep your basil away from your cucumber plants as the latter may adversely affect the taste of your herb.

Benefits of basil leaves

Basil contains plenty of essential nutrients that help fight viruses and other diseases. Enumerated below are some of the health benefits that basil leaves provide.

• Acts as a good anti-inflammatory remedy

Linalool, citronellol, eugenol, etc. are some of the essential oils that can be extracted from basil leaves. These oils help combat heart diseases, rheumatoid arthritis, as well as inflammatory bowel diseases. 

• Rich in antioxidant properties

Due to its natural antioxidants, basil is known to provide enzymes that help relieve stress as well as decrease fat build up in the liver. Especially when eaten regularly, basil is believed to improve overall health and keep the human body from ailments.

• Helps combat cancer

Apart from minimizing bacterial, fungal, and viral diseases, basil is also a good natural remedy to help fight cancer directly from its root. Since it contains  phytochemicals, basil has the capacity to prevent lung, oral, liver and skin cancer.

• Reduces anxiety and depression

If you are suffering from any form of stress, anxiety, or depression, consuming basil can be very beneficial. The herb’s anti-stress agent stimulates neurotransmitters that are believed to regulate the endorphin and dopamine, the hormones responsible for a human’s happiness and energy.

• Manages indigestion and acid reflux

If you are suffering from indigestion, bloating, or water retention, basil is considered as one of the best remedies. It is also known for restoring loss of appetite as well as healing acid reflux. For best results, you could use basil as a main ingredient for your green juice along with other fruits and vegetables that are rich in antioxidants and micronutrients.

The post Why Are My Basil Leaves Small? (And How to Fix It Fast) appeared first on Plant2Harvest.

With all these culinary benefits that sage brings, it truly is a nice to grow one in your garden to make the herb more accessible. However, there are some instances where sage fails to perform appropriately including not growing the desired size of leaves. 

Fortunately for you, we have listed below some of the possible reasons why such a growing problem happens and some tips on how to deal with it.

Some of the most common reasons your sage plant is growing small leaves are pest infestations, parched soil, nutrient deficiencies, significant changes in weather, or other growing problems and diseases such as mint rust, powdery mildew, slugs, or crown gall.

Causes of small sage leaves

1. Pest infestations

What to look out for:

Thin, yellow leaves; damaged stems

What to do:

If you are wondering why your sage plant is not producing any bigger leaves, you might want to check it for signs of pest infestations. When these pests, particularly aphids and thrips, feed on your sage plant, they suck out all the fluids and nutrients. As a result, your sage lacks essential nutrients, therefore produces smaller leaves.

To prevent this, you may opt to apply some organic pesticides so you get rid of the pests but at the same time not kill your entire plant with harsh chemicals.

2. Parched soil

What to look out for:

Brittle soil surface; thin leaves

What to do:

Although sage is considerably a heat-resistant herb, leaving your soil too dried up can also largely affect the leaf production of your sage plant. To fix this, see to it that you water your sage when the soil is already dry to touch, but make sure not to pour the water directly onto the plant but rather onto the soil so the water will be quickly absorbed by the plant’s roots to help with the nourishment and production of larger leaves.

3. Nutrient deficiencies

What to look out for:

Small, thin leaves; wilted stems; dry roots; leaf discoloration

What to do:

Any kinds of plants, sage included, will definitely produce smaller leaves if they lack in essential nutrients. So, to avoid this from happening any further, make sure that your sage plant receives the ample amount of nutrients that it needs. To be able to determine the type of nutrient that your sage specifically needs, you can run a soil test with a home test kit which is conveniently available in most garden boutiques and shops.

4. Significant changes in weather

What to look out for:

Wilted leaves, frost bites

What to do:

Sage does not particularly thrive well during the cold season and extremely low temperatures can cause falling off of existing leaves as well as prohibiting new growth. When the plant is grown in an unlikely weather condition, it can hinder its entire growth which can result in production of smaller and thinner leaves, as well as weaker and skinnier stems.

Other growing problems and diseases

Have you noticed other unusual growing problems in your sage aside from producing smaller leaves? If your answer is yes, you might want to take some time familiarizing yourself with other problems, pests, and diseases that may damage your sage plant as it grows. Along with these are the solutions that you can apply to avoid further damages and actually save your plant.

1. Mint rust

Mint rust is a fungal disease that is usually identified as small, dusty bumps typically located on the underside of the leaves and the color may vary between bright orange, yellow, and brown. You will also notice that the new foliages have faded colors and deformed shape. When not prevented, mint rust rapidly spreads from one leaf to another, to the extent of damaging other plants as well. 

To avoid further damage, remove infected leaves off of the plant and apply heat treatment to the roots by submerging them in hot water at 44°C, preferably for about 10 minutes. Afterwards, cool it down using cold water and then start replanting.

2. Powdery mildew

Powdery mildew is one of the common diseases in most plants that usually appear as the temperature rises during the early spring. Initially, powdery mildew manifests signs like dusty white spots on the surface of the leaves. As the fungal disease worsens, the fungi will entirely cover the leaf which will then result in leaf drop and distort new growth. When left untreated, this may eventually lead to your plant’s death.

After removing all the infected leaves, it is important that you provide the rest of the plant with good air circulation as well as sufficient sunlight and good soil drainage. Proper pruning can also help avoid powdery mildew from damaging your sage.

3. Slugs

You can easily recognize if slugs have been feasting on your sage plants if you see slimy silver trails on the surface of the sage leaves and there are persistent irregularly shaped holes, clearly indicating that pests have been feeding on your sage. 

Compared to other pests and insects feeding on sage plants, slugs are relatively easier to get rid of. You can simply take them out using your hands, set up traps. You can either create a small pond-like area around your sage plants to drown the slugs, or you some abrasive barriers that will tear their skin.

4. Crown gall

Crown gall in Sage is a disease caused by Agrobacterium tumefaciens that pass through the wounds in the roots or stems that causes plant tissues to grow disorientedly, causing galls or swelling. Crown galls are initially light in color; as it worsens, it turns darker and bigger. This bacterial disease may be soft, hard, or spongy and when left untreated it can cause the stems of the sage to dry out and eventually kill the entire plant.

In order to avoid your sage from getting the crown galls, avoid wounding your plant so the bacteria will not have the opportunity to enter through it. It will also be helpful if you plant your sage in a well-draining soil. 

Tips on growing sage properly

Now that you fairly have an idea of what possible pests, insects, and other diseases can destroy your sage, it is essential that you know what are the things that you should do in order to avoid such damages from happening. Here are a few tips that will definitely come in handy when you finally start growing sage.

1. Regularly water your sage until they reach full maturity.

During its early growing stage, sage would require a consistently moist soil so make sure that you regularly water it until it reaches full maturity. When it has fully grown, you can somehow lay off on your regular water supply and just water your sage when the soil is already dry to touch. 

If it happens that you are on the wetter side of the Earth, you may not need to water your sage anymore and just rely on rainfall. Afterall, sage is considerably a drought tolerant herb.

2. Sufficient sunlight makes your sage healthier.

As a sun-loving plant, sage prefers to receive full sun everyday, although it can also tolerate partial sun exposure especially in warmer areas. 

Inadequate sun exposure may cause your sage to be leggy in its attempt to catch more sunlight. So, make sure that you grow it in a well lit area or any area in your garden where it can receive direct and full sunlight. If you are growing your sage indoors, it is better that you place it near the windows where sunlight can pass through. You can also set up a fluorescent light 2-4 inches directly above the plant. 

3. Prune older stems

To encourage more growth, make it a habit to prune about a third of the older and woody stems ideally in spring. Apart from this, pruning will also help improve the air circulation within the plant, especially for the older leaves at the base, which can help minimize the chances of powdery mildew. 

4. Companion planting

If you are planning on adding more crops in your garden whilst growing your sage, you have to know which plants are safe to be planted alongside sage and which ones aren’t. For instance, carrots, brassicas, tomatoes, and strawberries are good insect and pest repellents so they are ideal companion plants for your sage. If you want to improve the quality and taste of your sage, you can plant rosemary alongside it. 

On the other hand, here are some of the plants that you should not consider as companion plants: Alliums, cucumbers, fennel, wormwood, and rue.

5. Allocate enough space for multiple sage plants

If you are growing more than 1 sage plant, you may want to allocate ample space between each of them, preferably 18 to 24 inches apart since this kind of herb has a tendency to become bushy.

Benefits of sage leaves

Aside from adding eucalyptus-like flavor and aroma to most mediterranean dishes, sage leaves are also believed to be providing some health benefits.

1. Sage is traditionally used as a natural remedy to diabetes as it helps regularize blood sugar levels.
2. Due to its estrogen-like properties, sage can also be a good medication to ease menopause symptoms such as hot flashes, vaginal irritability, and excessive sweating.
3. Consuming sage on a regular basis is a good way to flush out toxins out of your body, thus lowers the risk of possible chronic diseases.
4. Sage contains plenty of essential nutrients and vitamins that a human body needs on a daily basis. Some of these are Vitamin K, Calcium, Iron, Protein, and Vitamin B6.
5. Sage also helps lower bad cholesterol, while increasing good cholesterol level.

The post Why Are My Sage Leaves So Small And How To Fix It? appeared first on Plant2Harvest.

What’s the best thing about cilantro, you may ask? It’s the fact that all parts of it are edible. From the seeds to the leaves, all can be used as a flavorful spice for your dish. So, once your cilantro shows signs of small leaf production, make sure to immediately fix this by following these remedies mentioned below.

Your cilantro plant is growing small leaves because of inadequate sun exposure, soil is too warm, too much water, the plant has bolted, or other cilantro diseases such as Bacterial leaf spot, Powdery Mildew, Galls or Aphids.

Causes of small cilantro leaves

1. Inadequate sun exposure

What to look out for:

Leaf discoloration, leaf wilting; stunted growth

What to do:

One of the very reasons why your cilantro performs poorly, production of cilantro leaves included, is because it does not receive the ample amount of sunlight that it needs. Essentially, cilantro needs at least 6 hours of full sun exposure everyday to reach its maximum growth capacity. But, avoid exposing it to too much heat to prevent it from bolting quickly.

2. Soil is too warm

What to look out for:

Wilting leaves, dried soil, yellowing leaves

What to do:

Cilantro is known to be a cool-season crop which is why high temperatures can greatly affect the overall growth and performance of the herb. Especially if you are growing your cilantro in a pot, there’s a huge tendency that the soil becomes too warm.

To fix this, try putting your potted cilantro under full sun exposure in the morning and give it some shade from midday to afternoon.

3. Too much water

What to look out for:

Moldy soil, leaf discoloration, root rot

What to do:

While cilantro thrives better on cold temperatures, a regulated watering schedule is still a must to avoid your cilantro from being soaked with too much water. Ideally, cilantro needs about an inch of water per week for optimal growth and just enough to keep the soil moist without overwatering. In this case, a pot with good drainage or a well-draining soil is also required.

4. The plant has bolted

What to look out for:

Small, narrow leaves; Poor leaf production; visible flowers

What to do:

Once your cilantro has bolted, you can no longer expect it to produce broad, dark green leaves but rather its energy is more focused on producing new seeds for the next growing season. Thus, if you prefer to have more and larger leaves instead of new seeds, make it a point to delay your cilantro’s bolting by keeping it away from high temperatures. 

Other growing problems and diseases

Depending on its current growing conditions and the way the plant is being managed, various kinds of pests and other diseases can be encountered when growing your own cilantro. In this section, each of them are discussed one by one from the causes, symptoms, and to the possible ways on how to treat them.

1. Bacterial leaf spot

Some of the symptoms of bacterial leaf spot are tiny water-soaked patches in between the leaf veins that eventually turns from dark brown to black. Water-soaked lesions are also found in the plant’s fruits and some elongated dark slashes are visible along the stems. 

Bacterial leaf spot is caused by a plant pathogen called Pseudomonas syringae that highly infests a wide range of plant species which is typically transmitted through infected seeds and splashing water or rain. This type of disease is easily formed in cool and moist conditions.

2. Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew in coriander plant or cilantro leaves is heavily influenced by fungus called Erysiphe heraclei that easily spreads from one plant to another especially when there is a lack in adequate air circulation. Wet weather is also one of the biggest factors of the rapid spreading of this fungal disease. 

Powdery mildew is initially manifested by pale yellow leaf spots which eventually turn to white powdery lesions that form on the surface and underside of the leaf until they rapidly spread and form into large clusters and cover the entire leaf.

To prevent powdery mildew from infecting your cilantro, avoid over fertilizing your plant; provide adequate amount of sunlight; avoid too much moisture; and apply some fungicide from rapid protection.

3. Wilting

Commonly, you will only notice that your cilantro is suffering from wilt disease when the leaves actually start to wilt. However, unbeknown to many, symptoms of wilting initially show when there are visible yellow spots on the surface of the leaves which later on turn dry. 

Eventually, when left untreated, the plant starts to wilt and the roots show vascular discoloration. To rescue your cilantro from wilting, water your plant regularly, apply fertilizers on schedule, or treat your plant with fungicide as deemed necessary.

4. Galls

Galls in cilantro are caused by the fungus Protomyces macrosporus L. that commonly affect the roots, stems, and leaves. Galls are identified as the swelling in the infected parts of the plant that when not treated immediately may disrupt the overall growth of the plant and affect the shape and quality of the cilantro seeds.

Unfortunately, there is cure for galls and it somehow leaves permanent damage to the infected plant. Once the bumps have built up, the only best way to do is get rid of the infected stem or the plant itself. As the old saying goes, prevention is better than cure and in the case of cilantro, it is easier to do ways that will prevent galls from forming in your cilantro such as avoiding it from having wounds, provide it with a good growing condition, and if possible grow a variety that is more disease resistant. 

5. Aphids

Aphid infestation can be easily spotted when your cilantro exhibits symptoms like leaf discoloration and distortion, visible streaks of sticky substance excreted by the insects, and stunted shoots. 

Aphids are soft-bodied, pear-shaped insects that normally attack on the underside of the leaves or tender young foliages. While cilantro can withstand the presence of a few aphids, high infestation can greatly affect the plant’s performance and may eventually result in demise.

If aphid infestation is just minimal, you can easily fix this problem by pruning the infected parts of the plant and rinse of the rest of the cilantro with water. In any case that the number of aphids feeding on your cilantro is way too high, you may opt for some insecticidal soaps or oils. 

Tips on growing cilantro properly

Cilantro is considerably easy to grow especially if you have the best growing conditions and you are equipped with proper knowledge and resources on how to take care of a cilantro plant. To help you get started, below are some of the pointers that you can consider when growing a cilantro.

1. Avoid planting your cilantro during the summer heat

Proper timing is one of the important things to consider when growing your own cilantro. Of course, the last thing you want to happen is to harvest a bitter-tasting cilantro and for that to be prevented, you have to avoid growing your cilantro during the summer heat. Similarly, cilantro will not also thrive well in frosty conditions, thus, the best time to plant your cilantro is in the late spring or early fall. 

You may also opt to initially grow your cilantro indoors and then just transfer it outdoors when the temperature is more favorable.

2. Keep your cilantro plant away from the weeds

Weeds are bad news to your cilantro; they contribute to overcrowding and they compete for the nutrients that are supposed to be keeping the herb healthy. If you are willing to dedicate more time in keeping your garden at its best, you may just simply cut any visible weeds sprouting from the soil, or use some weed killers.

More conveniently, you can mulch around your cilantro plants as soon as it starts showing on the surface of the soil; this should prevent the weeds from growing.

3. Test your soil prior to planting

While Cilantro is considerably tolerant and can thrive in any rich soil, for better quality, it is recommended that you grow it in neutral soil with pH between 6.2 and 6.8. So, before planting your cilantro, perform a soil test first to determine its pH level. If the results are all good and the planting has started, make sure that you keep the soil moist and well-drained.

4. Choose appropriate companion plants

Knowledge in companion planting is essential in growing your cilantro as it can make or break your plant. For instance, cilantro is best planted with legumes, dill, anise, tomatoes, basil,and potatoes. Meanwhile, avoid planting fennel near cilantro.

Benefits of cilantro leaves

Cilantro is commonly used to add flavors in soups and green salads, either fresh or dried, and are typically seen in asian and middle eastern cuisine. 

Like any other herbs, cilantro is also known for its many health benefits which are as follows:

1. Cilantro is rich in antioxidants

Do you ever feel so fresh and healthy evertime to you add cilantro on your food? That is because this herb contains a lot of antioxidants that help flush out bad toxins off of your body. 

2. Avoids brain ailments

Consuming cilantro regularly is also a good way to protect our brains from possible ailments such as Parkinson’s, Alzheimer’s, and multiple sclerosis.

3. Treats skin diseases

Aside from ingesting it, the extracts coming cilantro can also be used as a natural ointment to treat skin conditions like rashes, acne, pigmentation, dryness, oiliness, etc.

The post Why Are My Cilantro Leaves So Small And How To Fix It? appeared first on Plant2Harvest.

However, despite geranium being known for its colorful blooms, its leaves are just as important. So, if you observe that your geranium is starting to produce smaller leaves, waste no time and immediately take action.

If your Geranium plant started to grow smaller leaves it could be because Mealybugs, Lack of fertilizer, Excessive or lack of water supply, Insufficient sunlight exposure or other geranium diseases that we are going to cover. See below the described symptoms that fit your geranium to grow smaller leaves and how to fix it.

Here are some of the possible factors causing the production of small geranium leaves as well as the ways on how to fix them.

Causes of small geranium leaves

1. Mealybugs
   
   What to look out for
   
   Distorted leaves, small plant, yellow leaves
   
   What to do
   
   Mealybugs are usually characterized as small soft-bodied insects surrounded by silky, white covers that usually feast on plant stems and leaf nodes.
   
   When infested, your geranium leaves will turn to yellow and eventually drop. Mealybugs also distort new buds that result in your geranium producing smaller leaves than normal. 
   
   You can create your own organic plant spray against mealybugs by making a paste out of some cloves of garlic, a small bulb of onion, and a teaspoon of cayenne pepper. Mix the paste with water.
   
   After an hour, strain the mixture and add some soap. Transfer into a spray bottle and apply it onto your geranium leaves.
   
   
2. Lack of fertilizer
   
   What to look out for
   
   Small leaves with yellowish edges
   
   What to do
   
   If you happen to notice the bottom edges of your geranium leaves turning yellow and the leaves are thin, then it simply means that your plant lacks proper nutrition.
   
   To be able to fix this, feed your plants with prescribed amounts of liquid fertilizer by spraying directly onto the foliage.
   
   Do this regularly for every two weeks until the manifestations disappear and your plant starts to develop average to huge sized leaves.
   
   
3. Excessive or lack of water supply
   
   What to look out for
   
   Dried/thin leaves, soggy soil
   
   What to do
   
   Especially when the humidity level is high, it is essential that you provide your geranium plants with a sufficient amount of water supply, or else it won’t be able to generate enough energy that is essential in getting the nutrients that it needs to produce healthy, large leaves. 
   
   Make sure to not leave the soil too dry, but careful enough to not overwater your plant. Just keep the soil moist and water when deemed necessary.
   
4. Insufficient sunlight exposure
   
   What to look out for
   
   Small leaves, weak plant, yellowish leaves
   
   What to do
   
   Another reason why your geranium plant fails to produce larger leaves is that it does not receive adequate amounts of sunlight. Geranium is known to be a sun-loving plant that requires about 6 hours of full sun exposure every day.
   
   When neglected, this can cause your plant not only to produce smaller and unhealthy leaves but also to leggy stems. There is also a huge possibility that your entire plant will not thrive longer than you expect.

Other growing problems and diseases

What’s great about growing geraniums is that they are considerably hardy so they are perfect for beginners, but that does not make them a hundred percent resistant to pests and diseases.

As a matter of fact, below are some of the growing problems and diseases that usually prey on geraniums.

Read on the following so you will be fully equipped with knowledge on how to manage these kinds of growing problems.

1. Bacterial blight
   
   Bacterial blight can be quite tricky to detect as the symptoms may show in different ways.
   
   For instance, it can appear as wedge-shaped whose wider area is commonly seen along the leaf margin while the narrower part is near the leaf vein.
   
   Alternatively, bacterial blight may also look like some circular or irregular shape soaked spots that are usually brown in color. 
   
   This bacterial disease rapidly spreads from one leaf to another, primarily attacking the vascular system of the plant via the veins and petioles.
   
   Once infected, the entire plant will have a greater chance of wilting and eventually dying. To avoid bacterial blight from spreading, immediately eliminate the infected plants and sanitize the gardening tools that have been used for your infected geranium as they may still carry some bacterial residue.
   
2. Backleg
   
   Backleg is a fungal disease primarily brought by Phoma lingam.
   
   This disease may strike at any stage of the plant’s development but typically starts from the seedlings, about three weeks after the transplantation.
   
   While this disease usually appears on cole crops like cabbage and broccoli, as well as in potatoes, it may also affect geranium leaves due to stem cuttings which are used in propagating the plant.  
   
   Once backleg manifests in your geranium, it is important that you immediately get rid of the stem cuttings.
   
   Meanwhile, in order to avoid this disease from taking over your plant, proper sanitation of gardening tools is required and avoid overwatering your geranium as a moist environment can greatly contribute to this fungal disease.
   
3. Budworm
   
   When you notice that the unopened buds of your geranium have small holes, it could be a sign of budworm infestation.
   
   These budworms are caterpillars, whose colors may vary according to their host flower and have two faded lines running parallel to their body, that specifically strike on a geranium plant’s unopened buds and feed on them from the inside out, causing the small holes. 
   
   Once you see your plant’s unopened buds manifesting the signs of budworm infestation, immediately pick them out as well as the visible budworms feasting on your plant. In cases where heavy infestation occurs, you may opt for a spray. 
   
4. Leaves turn red
   
   Aside from pests, bacteria, and fungi, inappropriately low temperatures can also adversely affect the growth and quality of your geranium.
   
   Especially when you leave your plant outside in winter or too early in the spring, they do not respond well to the chilling nighttime breeze. As a result, the leaves of the geranium turn red.
   
   To avoid this from happening in the future, wait until the nighttime temperature is favorable to your plant, ideally at 40°F, before you move it outdoors.
   
5. Alternaria Leaf Spot
   
   Once Alternaria Leaf Spot infestation begins, you will initially see some dark circular spots on the surface of the infected leaves, usually ¼ to ½ inch in diameter.
   
   As the fungal disease spreads, these spots may change in color; from dark to gray or brown plus yellow rings around the edges. An application of fungicide can help alleviate the disease from spreading.

Tips on growing geranium properly

With a plant this gorgeous, you’d really have to invest more time knowing how to properly take good care of a geranium plant.

Whether you are growing your geranium indoors or outdoors, here are some of the essential tips that you might want to take note of to make sure that you provide a good growing condition for your plant.

1. Schedule watering
   
   You don’t want to kill your plant due to overwatering so it is important that you allow the soil to dry, but not too much,  before watering it again.
   
   Especially during the winter, take time to examine the dampness of the soil first by using a moisture meter.
   
   If you do not have any, you can simply stick your finger 1 in deep into the soil and check if it is dry enough to receive water again.
   
   Additionally, avoid overhead watering as this can lead to pests or disease issues.
   
2. Apply fertilizer during the growing season
   
   When your geranium is at its most active stage, make this an opportunity to feed them with fertilizers.
   
   Applying fertilizers during the months when geranium is actively growing will encourage the plant to grow more vigorously.
   
   Preferably, you can use water-soluble fertilizers and apply them every two weeks but be cautious not to use fertilizers in winter.

3. Deadhead your geraniums
   
   To be able to fully maximize the growth of your geranium, you can start by deadheading the plant.
   
   This means that you remove the older blooms to give way to the new ones.
   
   But, to do this effectively, you must not only remove the top flowers, instead, but you also have to make the cut from the bottom of the stem that holds the older blooms. 
   
   While you are at it, you can also take this time to remove the yellow leaves off of the plant.
   
   They are usually found near the base of the plant since that is the part that gets less light. 
   
4. Spray on some pesticides
   
   Protect your geranium from unwanted pests and insects, particularly worms and caterpillars by spraying some pesticides.
   
   Preferably, use one that contains Bacillus Thuricide. This bacteria, when ingested by caterpillars and worms, aggressively attack their digestive system that eventually causes their death.
   
   Don’t worry because this kind of pesticide is deemed safe for pets and humans.

Benefits of geranium leaves

Aside from making your garden or your indoor office even brighter and more colorful than ever, geranium can also be a good choice of medicinal resources.

Essentially, you can make oil out of geranium leaves and these organic oils contain antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, astringent, and antimicrobial properties that help ease some conditions. 

Here are some of the diseases and conditions in which geranium leaf extract can be of huge help.

• Neurodegenerative disease
• Diabetes
• Wounds and allergies
• Menopause and perimenopause
• Infection
• Nasal vestibulitis
• Swelling

Additionally, geranium leaves can also be a good herbal tea. You can use either fresh or dried geranium leaves. Just pour some hot water and let the leaf diffuse. After that, you can simply strain the leaves out and drink your tea.

The post Why Are My Geranium Leaves So Small And How To Fix It? appeared first on Plant2Harvest.

So, you decided to grow Basil in your garden and go through all the hard work but you suddenly noticed that the Basil leaves turned yellow! And you think all the hard work of growing it is gone to waste, but don’t worry! We’re here to help!

There are a few reasons that can cause your basil leaves to turn yellow, like too much or too little watering or fertilizing, fungal disease, pests, soil pH is not at the right level or simply the plant came to the end of its life. In the following section, we’ll explain to you about the problem, what’s causing it and how you can avoid or fix it! 

Photo by Avi

Wrong Amount Of Watering

Yellow leaves could indicate that the plant suffers from too much watering. Too much water will suffocate the roots, which causes bacteria that causes the roots to rot.

Also, watering it from above or with sprinkles can tear the leaf surface and the sunlight on the standing water can cause sun clad.

On the other hand, if your basil doesn’t get enough water can also cause the basil to dry and turn its leaves yellow.

How Can You Fix This?

It’s preferable to keep the soil mostly dry and water deeply every 7 or 10 days in the early morning or late evening. 

Watering the basil in the early morning is better since the sunlight is evaporating the excess water.

If you are planting your Basil in your garden and you are afraid you don’t know how much water it needs, you can use this 3-in-1 meter!

It will show you the level of the moisture in your soil and help you decide if it needs more watering or not.

Make sure you are using the right pot if you are growing it indoors. I really like this self-watering pot!

You don’t have to fear that you will forget to water the plant and it will get an adequate amount of water every time, and it’s inexpensive. 

If you want to grow basil in a pot, make sure that there are enough drainage holes in the bottom so the soil won’t be spongy and the roots can breathe.

If you think that the roots are rotting, check the roots and if they are brown and slimy, it means that it is rotting. If the plant is rotting, throw it away and the soil that was used before planting a new one.

Photo by Iburiedpaul

Fungal Diseases

Yellow leaves could indicate that the plant is suffering from Fungal diseases, It’s usually the Downy mildew disease or the Fusarium wilt disease.

The Downy mildew disease is caused by microbes that are related to algae that also turns the plants brown or gray and fuzzy. 

The Fusarium wilt is caused by soil-borne that affects the plant’s tissues inside the stem that transfer the water that the plant absorbs to all of its body. 

How Can You Fix This?

If you discovered the problem in its early stages, you might stop it by carefully cutting the affected leaves and throwing them away. 

If some leaves have already fallen, throw them away in a covered trash can because the longer the stay on the ground the more time it has to spread the disease.

Moist causes the disease, so keep the plant as dry as possible in order to heal it and keep some space between the plants to avoid moisture.
The 3-in-1 soil tester I mentioned above will do the work for you.

If the plant is badly affected, throw it away in a covered trash can as well the soil that was used.

The Right Temperature and Sunlight

Basil needs a relatively warm temperature, so yellow leaves might indicate that the plant is not getting enough sunlight. 

However, keep in mind that older leaves and bottom leaves naturally turn yellow so it doesn’t indicate any problem and you don’t need to do anything about it.

How Can You Fix This?

So the perfect temperature is above 70°F or 21°C during the day and above 50°F or 10°C during the night. 

Basil also needs bright sunlight for 6 to 8 hours in a day.

If you’re growing it indoors, you will need artificial light for 10 to 12 hours during the winter, here you can get a growing light for plants that give the perfect light and heat that the plant needs in order to grow well.

Pests

Yellow leaves could indicate that pests like Aphids and Caterpillars are feeding on the plant. After you get rid of them, the plant will continue to grow well.

How Can You Fix This?

You can get rid of Aphids by using insecticidal soap (However, you must know that using it during a hot day will scorch the plant). 

Take the soap with some water and clean the infected leaves.

With caterpillars, you can either pick them up or use Bacillus Thuringiensis, a natural bacterium that will only harm the caterpillars. 

Wrong amount of soil pH

The yellow leaves could indicate that the level of the soil pH is too high because the pH causes a decrease of the nutrients (Most importantly, nitrogen) in the soil.

If the bottom leaves are turning yellow, it means that the pH level in the soil is too high.

How Can You Fix This?

The ideal pH level is 7 to 5.7, you can use this test kit to check the precise amount of pH level in your soil. 

In order to avoid this, don’t reuse old soil and if you want to use substances, make sure it has the right amount of pH. 

And if this is not helping, you need to get some new and good quality soil.

Use The Right Pot

If you got your potted little basil from the store and the leaves turn yellow, it’s because the plants in the store have a hard time growing in such a little pot where they can’t stretch their long roots and there are no nutrients in the soil.

How Can You Fix This?

You will need to transplant it to a new and larger pot, where its roots will have enough space to grow.

The best size of a pot is at least 2 gallons or 9 liters and 10 in. (25 cm) deep like this one with good soil with all the nutrients that you can buy right here.

Fertilizing

The yellow leaves could indicate that the soil doesn’t have enough nutrients.

Basil prefers soil rich with nutrients but it can grow well in poor soil if it has enough nutrients.

How Can You Fix This?

Before planting, test the soil. 

You can use this soil test kit to know exactly what you need!

If the soil is rich with nutrients, the basil will grow well without fertilizing. If you want, you can add a bit of compost like this one.

If the soil is poor, then you should add a layer of 4 to 6 inches of high-quality compost with an organic fertilizer like this one I usually use with the amount for every 100 square feet. 

After you see that your basil is growing and getting strong with beautiful green leaves, fertilize once every 14 days.

And use fertilizer that includes potassium in it, an essential nutrient that the basil requires.

End of the plant’s life

A basil plant only lasts for one year, since it’s an annual herb. So, the yellow leaves indicate that it’s about to die. 

When the plant is about to die, it will dry, turn yellow and start growing flowers.

How Can You Fix This?

Unfortunately, there’s nothing you can do to avoid or fix this but you can still make some use of the Basil plant before it dies.

When the plant is about to die, it uses its last efforts to grow flowers, cut the flower as soon as you spot them and then you delay the plant’s death a little bit until it will eventually die and you can start a new plant.

The post Why Is My Basil Leaves Turning Yellow, And How To Fix It? appeared first on Plant2Harvest.

Given all these options that you can do with mint, it would really be extremely satisfying to harvest your own mint from your own garden. If you want to know what are the proper steps to do this without risking the entire condition of your mint plant, check out these essential information below.

Growing Conditions

Fast-growing, low maintenance, flavorful, and grows all year-round, there clearly is no reason for you not to grow mint. Another good thing about it is it comes in plenty of varieties so you can pick the kind that suits best to your planting resources. Now, how would you know what kind of growing conditions you have to build to successfully grow a healthy mint? Check out the list below.

1. Weather Conditions

Depending on the variety that you are growing, mint can tolerate both hot and cool temperatures. Simply put, mint is highly adaptable. For instance, if you are growing peppermint, it is best that you grow during the cold weather; Spearmint, on the hand, thrives better in warm temperature. However, generally speaking, mint can tolerate temperatures between 55 and 70°F (13–21ºC).

2. Sun Exposure

Generally, mint prefers partial to full sun exposure so better plant your mint in the sunny part of your garden. About 5 to 6 hours of sun exposure everyday should be adequate. If you prefer, you can still grow your mint indoors but make sure that you place it in areas where light can uninterruptedly pass through.

3. Soil Requirements

Mint grows well in fertile, moist, and slightly acidic soil with pH 6.0 to 7.0. If you have a limited source for fertile soil, you can still work on a slightly poor soil by applying organic compost of fertilizer. It is also important to always keep the soil moist, otherwise your mint will find it quite hard to survive. To help you achieve this, you can cover the soil with a little amount of munch.

4. Watering

If you are growing your mint in areas with full sun exposure, you must see to it that you keep the soil moist by watering it on a regular basis. Mint is generally a low maintenance plant; the only thing that it constantly needs is an adequate amount of water. Preferably, water your mint in the morning so the moisture can keep up until the heat of the afternoon sun hits.

5. Spacing

If you have a relatively small garden, you might want to limit your mint plant to just 1 to 2 as it has a high tendency to spread to as far as 4 inches per month and roughly 2 feet within six months. With this, it is recommended to plant mint at least 2 feet apart. 

Alternatively, if you want to hinder it from too much spreading, you may opt to grow mint in containers, whether indoors or outdoors.

6. Companion Planting

There are lots of herbs, plants, and vegetables that grow well with mint. For instance, peas, cabbage and tomatoes will be more likely to improve their flavor if planted near mint. Additionally, mint is also beneficial to beets, kale, eggplant, bell pepper, broccoli, etc. as it is known as an effective and natural insect repellent. 

Process Of Harvesting Mint

Depending on how many leaves you will need or for which event you will need them, you can harvest mint in smaller or larger amounts; this, however, does not affect the procedure of harvesting the plant. The only difference is that harvesting mint in large amounts may require you to use some sharp tools. Meanwhile, using your bare hands to harvest fewer mint leaves should be just fine.

• Using garden shears or just your fingertips, trim just about ⅓ of the total length of each stem. 
• Alternatively, you can just simply pick the leaves off of the stem especially if you only need a few for your cooking.
• Don’t be afraid to cut as many as you want. Remember, mint is a vigorously growing plant and in no time you will see growing new branches again.
• You could also use this opportunity to shape your mint according to your preferences. Since mint is prone to growing aggressively, you can trim it accordingly to avoid it from spreading all over the place.

Storing And Using

Of course, it will always be best to use mint immediately after you have harvested it, but like any other herbs, you can still have the option to just store it for future use. Depending on how you intend to use mint, there are plenty of ways to store it and when properly done, can preserve its freshness and rich flavor. 

1. Keep the mint in a plastic bag

1. Wash the mint thoroughly and then pat it dry using a clean paper towel.
2. Slightly wet a ply of paper towel. Squeeze out any excess water. 
3. Loosely wrap the damp paper towel around a bundle of mint. This will keep the mint from drying when put inside the fridge.
4. Put the bundled mint inside a slightly large ziplock bag, just enough not to crush the leaves. Seal the bag but be careful not to compress it too much, you will need a small amount of air circulating inside.
5. Place the bag in the fridge, preferably in the crisper drawer. Be careful not to put anything on top of the mint to avoid it from being crushed.
6. Doing this method will keep your mint fresh for about a week. Throw it out if you notice its leaves turn brown or slimy. 
7. When you’re ready to use the mint, do not forget to wash it with cold water without damaging the delicate leaves.

B. Freeze the mint

1. In freezing mint, it is best to not wash it all as excess water can freeze it improperly. But, if you insist, make sure to pat it dry completely.
2. Lay them flat on a baking tray or any available casserole pan. Make sure that separate stems and leave do not touch each other to avoid them from sticking together when frozen. 
3. Place the tray in the freezer for about 2 to 3 hours.
4. Once the mint have completely frozen, take them out from the baking tray and transfer them in a plastic container.
5. Squeeze the air out of the plastic bag by slightly pressing down on the bag or using a vacuum sealer.
6. What’s good about freezing mint is that you do not have to defrost it upon using. As a matter of fact, your dish will definitely taste better if you use frozen mint.

C. Turn the mint into ice cubes

1. Compared to the two other ways of freezing mint, this method will require you to chop off the mint into smaller pieces. 
2. Washing mint beforehand does not actually make much of a difference if you are going to use this method, so you can leave that option behind if you prefer.
3. Evenly distribute the chopped mint and fill all the compartments of the ice cube tray.
4. Fill each cube with just an adequate amount of water to avoid it from spilling.
5. Set the ice cube tray in the freezer and let it mold into a solid ice cube mint. 
6. Avoid placing anything on top of the tray to avoid possible contamination. If you have an ice cube tray cover, better to use it.
7. Your ice cube mint should last for about 6 months. Do not use the mint if you notice any discoloration.
8. If you will be using mint for your beverage, you can simply toss the ice cubes directly into your drink. However, if you intend to use it for cooking, let the ice melt first before using.

D. Keep the mint in water

1. Trim about an inch from the button end of the stem. This will allow your mint to thrive when submerged into the water.
2. Fill a small jar or glass container with just an inch of water.
3. Put the mint in the jar. Make sure that the cut part is touching the water.
4. Loosely cover the mint with a plastic bag, but be careful not to damage the leaves. You can use a rubber band to secure the plastic in the jar.
5. Keep the jar inside the fridge.
6. Every 2 to 3 days, change the water without having to take the mint out of the jar.
7. When you’re ready to use the mint, trim and rinse it first and then pat it dry.
8. This method will keep your mint fresh for about two weeks.

The post How To Harvest Mint Without Killing The Plant? appeared first on Plant2Harvest.

In some countries particularly in Asia, oregano is widely used as a medicinal herb that cures cough, serves as a natural antibiotic, lowers cholesterol, improves gut health, etc. Some even boil oregano leaves and drink these as an alternative to tea. In some in depth medical practices, oregano may have been found to contain some cancer-fighting properties.

Knowing how to use oregano as a culinary additive or or a medicinal plant is one thing, but learning how to harvest it without killing the entire plant is another. Make sure that you make your first harvest a good one by following these helpful instructions written below.

Growing Conditions

Oregano can be considered as a low maintenance plant that has the ability to grow year after year. Interestingly, some oregano are a decade old and have actually withstood heat and cold and remain to be deeply rooted on the ground.

Additionally, people who have limited garden space can still grow such herb because it grows well to both ground and container gardening. Whichever you prefer and suited best for your resources, these are the growing conditions of oregano that you need to meet.

1. Weather Conditions

Oregano thrives well in warm weather so it is recommended to grow this herb during the last frost in spring or when the temperature hits 45 degrees F or even warmer. Adversely, your oregano plant may need some protecting especially during the winter season.

You may also opt to grow your oregano in a container and place it indoors for as long as the temperature is between 65 and 70 F.

2. Sun Exposure

Depending on the variety of oregano that you are growing, your plant may need partial to full sun in order to grow vigorously.

The golden oregano, for instance, will only need partial sun to thrive, exposing it to full sun or too much sunlight will burn its leaves. Meanwhile, for most varieties, the flavor intensifies when it receives full sun all day long.

In growing oregano indoors, you will need to place near the windows or anywhere where it can still receive an adequate amount of sunlight.

3. Soil Requirements

The most suited type of soil for oregano is light, well-drained, and moderately fertile, therefore using fertilizer or organic compost won’t be necessary as it will only decrease the chances of the plant growing appropriately. It can also tolerate poor soil with a pH of 6.5 to 7.0.

4. Watering

Oregano does not need constant watering. As a matter of fact, it is preferred that you water your oregano only when the soil is dry to touch. 

When watering your oregano, make sure not to overwhelm it; just use an adequate amount of water for the soil to moisten. This is also the very reason why you need a loose and well-draining soil.

If you are growing your oregano in a container, check if it has good drainage so the plant won’t be soaked when watered.

5. Spacing

Oregano can grow up to 2 feet tall and spans about 18 inches across that is why it is necessary to allocate 8 to 10 inches distance from each oregano plant in a row.

Simultaneously, if you are growing your oregano in a container, make sure to use one that has a diameter of at least 12 inches to give your plant an ample space to grow.

6. Companion Planting

What’s good about oregano is you can maximize your garden by planting other types of herbs, plants, and vegetables as it is known to be a good companion plant to almost anything.

One of the benefits that other plants get from being planted alongside oregano is its capacity to repel insects. 

Harvest Period

The height of the oregano is an indicator whether it is ready to be harvested.

This herb is known for its strong, aromatic flavor; however, if you want a more flavorful harvest, you might want to wait just before the buds open as the leaves will most likely taste bitter when the flowers have started to bloom.

Morning is also the best time to harvest oregano when the dew has just dried out and the essential oils are more concentrated. 

Process of Harvesting Oregano

Like any other herb, harvesting oregano encourages your plant to grow more aggressively and produce healthier and fresher leaves.

However, this does not mean that you can harvest anytime. You have to wait until your oregano plant is 4 inches tall before you can harvest, otherwise it will fail to thrive.

When your oregano is ready and mature enough, follow these steps to harvest your plant without killing it.

1. Using a pair of scissors or garden shears, cut back stems from the plant just above a growth node. This will allow your plant to grow a new branch of stems from the snipped area to produce more leaves for future harvest.
   
2. Do not cut back more than ⅓ of the plant to avoid over pruning. Harvesting more than the recommended amount will lead to the exact opposite of steering clear of killing your plant.
   
3. While you may try cutting several stems all at once especially if you need quite a number of oregano, it is still recommended to cut one stem at a time to avoid damaging the new growth.
   
4. You could also use the simplest method of pinching when removing the stems off of the plant especially if you just plan to harvest 1 or 2 stems of leaves. It will be helpful if you hold the base of the stem to serve as support and avoid further damage while making the harvest.
   
5. Alternatively, if you just need a few pieces of oregano leaves, there’s no need for you to cut back the stems. Instead, you can just run your thumb and middle finger beneath the leaves you want to harvest and carefully pull them off of the stem.

Harvesting Tips

When oregano flowers, it affects the growth of the entire plant. So, to be able to divert the plant’s energy to producing more flavorful leaves instead of seeding, you need to deadhead the flowers as soon as they start fading.  You can either cut just beneath the flower or pinch it off of the stem. 

Oregano does not thrive well during the cold season, however you can help decrease the risk of it from totally dying if you stop pruning or harvesting about two weeks before the forecasted winter comes. 

Fast forward to the end of the cold season, you can start preparing your oregano plant for regrowth by removing brown and dead leaves and stems from the plant.

Storing and Using

Unlike other herbs, oregano is actually preferred to be used dried rather than fresh. In this case, there are 3 common ways to do so that we would like to share. These are as follows:

A. Hang the oregano to dry

1. Get a medium size paper bag and make a few holes (10-15) on each side.
2. After cleansing the freshly harvested oregano with running water, bundle 2-4 stalks together and put them inside the paper bag with the stalks sticking out.
3. Tightly tie a knot around the stalks until the opening of the paper bag is securely sealed.
4. Hang the paper bag. Drying oregano using this method should take about 2 to 6 weeks.

B. Use a food dehydrator

1. Get rid of the stalks and lay flat the fresh oregano leaves on the dehydrator tray, leaving 1-2 cm space between each other.
2. Preheat the food dehydrator 100 °F and set the moisture setting to the lowest level possible.
3. After 5-10 minutes, your food dehydrator is just about ready. Re-insert the trays inside the food dehydrator to start the process.
4. It typically takes 1-4 hours for the oregano to completely dry up. Check periodically to avoid burning your oregano.
5. Once it’s done. Let it cool first for about 20 minutes before crumbling and finally keeping it in an airtight container.

C. Bake your oregano in the oven

1. Start by preheating your oven to 170 F. 
2. Get the baking pan and lay flat your oregano, leaving about 1 in space between each other.
3. If you are only using the leaves, baking it will take an hour. But if you are not getting rid of the stems, it might take a bit longer.
4. When done, remove the oregano from the tray; let it cool for 10-20 minutes, crumble and then keep it in an airtight container.

Dried oregano generally maintains its strong flavor for about 1 to 3 years. To ensure that the flavor won’t fade through the years, make sure to keep them in an airtight container.

The post How To Harvest Oregano Without Killing The Plant? appeared first on Plant2Harvest.

Interestingly, due to its fresh and woody fragrance, many manufacturers have been using rosemary as a body perfume, through its natural oil. 

In the culinary world, rosemary is often used as an added spice in all types of meat, especially when roasted, and is commonly combined with some lemon and thyme.

These are just some of the things that you can do with either fresh or preserved rosemary. Imagine what more other dishes you can experiment with and what other products to create if you grow and harvest your own rosemary plant.

Read through this entire article and discover how you can harvest rosemary while keeping the entire plant thriving.

Growing Conditions

If you are situated in the warmer region of the earth and would like to have a fairly bushy garden that needs no high maintenance, rosemary can be one of your best options to grow. This herb thrives well in warm places, plus its thick and vigorous growth can help add a strong touch if you’re planning on putting up a rock garden in your front yard.

While rosemary is considerably a low maintenance plant, there are still some growing requirements that you need to take into account if you want to properly grow rosemary on your own.

1. Weather Conditions

Rosemary adapts well to high temperature and humidity. It can tolerate as low as 30 degrees F but any more degrees lower than that and you will have to bring your rosemary indoors or it will suffer from damages. This is also the very reason why rosemary is more preferred to be grown in containers instead directly on the ground.

2. Sun Exposure

Full sun is always the best for your rosemary. As much as possible, it needs at least 6 hours of sunlight everyday, whether you are growing it outdoors or indoors. If you are doing the latter, make sure that the sun exposure requirements are still met by going to the extent of using artificial light. It will also help if you will place your rosemary by the window where natural light can pass through.

3. Soil Requirements

Rosemary thrives in a loamy, well-drained soil with a pH between six and seven. It can also tolerate poor soil, but you could still use a bit of fertilizer to aid its vigorous growth.

4. Watering

It being fairly drought-tolerant, watering rosemary is not totally necessary to be done more frequently. Only water your herb when the soil has completely dried out, but be careful not to overwater it; you just need to moisten the soil. Rosemary is originally grown in the rocky hillsides of the Mediterranean, thus it does not grow well when its roots are way too soaked with water.

5. Spacing

Surprisingly, rosemary can grow into a massive, thick plant especially in warmer areas that is why it is recommended to allot about 3 feet of space between each rosemary plant to allow it to grow without risking overlapping with each other. 

Pro tip: this spacing will be easily maintained if you plant your rosemary in a container so you can quickly transfer it from one place to another especially before the first frost comes.

6. Companion Planting

Rosemary and broccoli are mutually beneficial with each other so you might want to plant them alongside each other. Rosemary is also proven to be a good companion plant of beans, cabbages, carrots, and hot peppers as rosemary helps repel pests and encourage other plants to flourish.

Harvest Period

If you want to make the most out of your rosemary plant, you might want to make your first harvest during the spring and summer when the temperature is high and the rosemary is at its most active state. 

During this season, rosemary grows faster than usual so the sprigs that you harvest will immediately grow back. You can harvest daily or weekly, as needed. Harvesting rosemary regularly will encourage it to grow more and produce fresher leaves.

You will also know that your rosemary is ready for harvest when you measure some of its branches and they are already 8 inches high. Branches shorter than 8 inches should be left behind to give them more time to mature.

Process Of Harvesting Rosemary

Rosemary can tolerate both single and heavy harvesting for as long as you are doing it the proper way. 

1. Harvest rosemary when it is most active, particularly during spring and summer and pick only those branches that are 8 inches tall or longer.
2. Using garden shears, cut the tender, top portion of the rosemary. Avoid cutting the hard and woody stems which are found at the base of the plant.
3. To make sure that you don’t kill the plant while making your harvest, l
4. Leave at least  ¾ of the plant for it to continue to grow. For instance, if a branch is already 8 inches long, just snip off 2 inches of it and leave 6 inches intact.
5. If you are not harvesting in large amounts, you might want to prioritize harvesting the longer and overgrown branches first. 
6. Since rosemary is known for its rapid and vigorous growth, you can also take this opportunity to trim your rosemary and keep its shape compact and orderly.

Storing And Using

During the hot season, your garden is probably overflowing with new and fresh rosemary so harvesting everyday won’t definitely be a problem. However, when the winter comes how are you supposed to fill your kitchen and spice up your favorite dishes with rosemary’s tea-like and peppery aroma? The answer? Know how to store and preserve them in various ways possible.

A. Store the rosemary in the refrigerator

1. Wash your rosemary and then dry it completely, otherwise it will get slimy once stored in the refrigerator.
2. Wrap the rosemary in a damp paper towel to keep it from drying out in the fridge.
3. Place the rosemary inside a ziplock bag or an airtight container. 
4. Put it inside the crisper compartment. Storing it in the refrigerator will maintain the herb’s freshness up to 2 weeks.

B. Freeze the rosemary

1. Lay the rosemary sprigs flat on a baking sheet. Be careful not to overcrowd it and leave about an inch of space between each other, or else they will stick to each other once frozen.
2. Put the rosemary in the freezer for a few hours. Check every hour to see if the sprigs are frozen enough. This means that they don’t droop or bend easy when you pick them up straight.
3. Once frozen, put the rosemary inside a ziplock bag. Press all the air out before tightly closing the container bag to maximize the space in the freezer.
4. Put the rosemary back into the freezer. Doing this method will more likely preserve the freshness of the rosemary for several months to a year.

C. Hang dry the rosemary

1. Remove a few leaves, about 1 to 2 inches, from the bottom part of the rosemary stem.
2. Gather all the sprigs and tie altogether the bottom part from where you removed the leaves.
3. Hang the rosemary in a dark, clean space, typically a basement or any room where sunlight can hardly pass through. Avoid also from hanging it in places near smoke, dust, or steam.
4. Check the rosemary every once in a while to see if it has perfectly dried. If you run your fingers through the dried rosemary and it falls easy like flakes, then it is good to go. However, if it immediately becomes powdery, it is a clear indicator that the rosemary is overdried and may not be as flavorful.
5. Crumble the dried rosemary and place them inside a container. Make sure that the lid is tightly closed for it to last longer.

D. Bake the rosemary in the oven

1. After rinsing rosemary with cold water, lay it flat on a clean sheet.
2. Let it air dry for about 10 minutes before actually putting it in the oven. Baking a damp rosemary will take the process a lot longer.
3. Lay the air dried rosemary on a baking sheet, leaving an even space between each sprig.
4. Set your oven to the lowest temperature and slow bake to avoid your rosemary from being burned.
5. Preferably, bake the rosemary for 30 minutes. After the first 15 minutes, open the door of the oven for a minute to let the moisture out. 
6. After 30 minutes, check if the leaves flake apart when crumbled. If not, bake it for another 10 to 15 minutes.
7. When done, let it rest. Put the cool, dried rosemary in an airtight container.

The post How To Harvest Rosemary Without Killing The Plant? appeared first on Plant2Harvest.

This leafy herb does not only make your meal taste better but it is also known to be abundantly rich in Vitamin C, Provitamin A, and K so it is totally safe to consume it everyday.

But, of course, having to use this everyday as part of your meal means frequent visits to the farmer’s market or nearby grocery store which can be quite a work. So, the best way to sustain your kitchen with these fresh cilantro herbs is to plant and harvest them yourself.

So, if you are curious how to properly grow cilantro in your garden and how you would be able to harvest them in the perfect timing and without the risk of killing the entire plant, you should definitely read this entire article.

Growing Conditions

Cilantro is definitely one of the fastest growing herbs that you can plant in your garden. But before anything else, we should first discuss the difference between cilantro and coriander which usually brings confusion especially for beginner gardeners. Simply put, cilantro is referred to as the leaves of the plant while coriander is the seed. Both come from the same plant and are used as spice for cooking.

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Now that you have familiarized yourself with Cilantro, it is time for you to know more about its growing conditions and what are the considerations to be made for each of the growing aspects.

1. Weather Conditions

Cilantro thrives on cold weather. The ideal temperature when growing this type of plant is between 10 and 29 degrees C (50 to 85 degrees F). Once the temperature increases beyond 29 C, there is a high risk that your cilantro will bolt. Similarly, planting cilantro during hot weather or in summer will make the cilantro leaves taste bitter.

2. Sun Exposure

Since cilantro is very sensitive to heat, it can tolerate full to partial sun but ideally only for a few hours in the morning. On the average, 4 hours of direct sunlight is sufficient, but during the summer when the temperature is significantly high, the best thing to do is place your cilantro plant in areas with partial shade to avoid too much heat.

You’ll know that your cilantro plant is exposed to too much heat or direct sunlight when it quickly shoots up flowers and produces new seeds.

3. Soil Requirements

Cilantro grows well in loamy, well-drained, and rich soil that has a pH between 6.5 and 7.0. About three weeks after the seeds have germinated, you may add some fertilizers or organic compost into the soil. You could also add mulch around the plants to avoid weeds from thriving.

4. Watering

Make a regular watering schedule, preferably every week to keep the soil moist and loamy especially during the first three weeks. For best growth, it is recommended to allocate about an inch of water just enough to reach the plant’s deep roots but not too much that it will be soaked.

If you are planting your cilantro in a container, see to it that it has good drainage so excess water can seamlessly pass through.

5. Spacing

When planting cilantro, it is most preferred to allot 6 to 8 inches distance from each other with space rows of 12 to 15 inches apart as cilantro can grow to as tall as 18 to 24 inches.

6. Companion Planting

Cilantro makes a good companion to a lot of plants in a garden whether it is an herb, a vegetable, or a root crop, but the most recommended ones are basil, dill, parsley, and anise. During summer or when the temperature gets warmer, planting cilantro alongside your tomatoes can be very beneficial because of the natural shade that the former gives the latter.

Harvest Period

From the time of planting corianders, it typically takes 3 to 4 weeks before you can make your first harvest of fresh cilantro leaves, while corianders or cilantro seeds can be harvested in about 45 days.

Alternatively, you can measure your cilantro. When its height reaches 6 inches, it means that the leaves in the outer portion of the plant are matured enough to be picked.

Harvesting your cilantro regularly will result in a bushier and fast-growing plant. Preferably you should do this routine every week.

Process Of Harvesting

Harvesting cilantro can either be done in smaller or larger amounts. Knowing exactly how much cilantro you need is important as the volume affects the method that you will have to apply. 

Harvesting smaller amount of cilantro

People who use cilantro as a cooking ingredient typically need only a smaller amount of this herb. In case you also plan on doing so, here are some of the steps that you need to remember when harvesting cilantro in smaller amounts. 

1. In harvesting cilantro leaves, always remember to start picking from the outer portion of the plant, leaving new growth behind. Older cilantro leaves tend to be more bitter and lose its fresh flavor, making it less desirable especially if you plan on using it as an added spice for your dish. 
2. Scissors or a knife will not be necessary in harvesting cilantro in small amounts. You can simply pinch the leaves out of the plant using your bare hands. To properly do this, trace down the stem of the outer leaves until you reach the node where new growth takes place.
3. Pinch about 1 cm above the new growth to remove the older stems and leaves above it. Avoid aggressively pulling the stem off of the plant to avoid damaging and hindering the growth of new leaves.

Harvesting in larger amount of cilantro

Harvesting cilantro in larger amounts is recommended particularly during the cold season where they grow properly. The heat of the summer causes cilantro to flower and seed which is quite frankly not a good time for harvest. It is also best to trim down your cilantro plant regularly to encourage vigorous and healthy growth.

Here are the steps to make sure that you harvest your cilantro in large amounts the appropriate way.

1. Before cutting any stems, examine your cilantro plant first. You will know that your cilantro is ready to be cut down its stems when its height reaches between 6 and 12 inches. Unless the stems of your plant are more than 6 inches, do not trim down the stems just yet.
2. Because you are cutting an entire stem, you will be needing a sharp knife or a pair of scissors. When harvesting in larger amounts, prioritize snipping off the largest leafy stems and cut it from the base of the plant.
3. Since your goal is to harvest cilantro without killing the entire plant, make sure not to harvest more than ⅓ of the plant to give it a chance to retain its strength and further its growth.

Storing And Using

There are 3 common ways to store freshly harvested cilantro so they’d still be useful for the coming days or weeks. Taking note of these methods will save your abundant supply of cilantro from being put to waste. 

1. Keep fresh cilantro in the fridge

1. After washing off the harvested cilantro, prepare a medium to large jar and fill it with about 3 inches of water. 
2. Cut the bottom part of the cilantro, exposing the fresh part of it for good water absorption. 
3. Put the cilantro into the jar and cover it with a slightly loose plastic bag.
4. Place it inside the fridge and use it fresh as you desire.

B. Freeze cilantro leaves 

1. Since you will be freezing your cilantro into ice cubes, washing it beforehand will not do much of a difference so this part will solely be based on your preference.
2. Chop off the leaves of the cilantro leaves.
3. Along with a few amounts of water, put these tiny bits of leaves into the ice cube trays.
4. Store the ice cube trays in the freezer. These frozen cilantro should last for 2 months.

C. Dry the cilantro leaves

1. After washing the cilantro leaves, pat them dry using a clean cloth or paper towel.
2. Get rid of the stems and lay the leaves on a baking sheet.
3. Bake the cilantro leaves for 20-30 minutes.
4. Keep the dried cilantro in an airtight container. Dried cilantro usually lasts for a year.

Uses of Cilantro

If you want to explore your kitchen and put your cilantro into more flavorful uses, here are some of the things that you can do with your fresh or preserved cilantro:

1. Toss cilantro into your vegetable salad.
2. Make your own healthy green sauce out of pure cilantro
3. Add an extra kick to your fried rice
4. Garnish your sour cream and fish fillet with chopped cilantro
5. Flavor your oil for added spice to your dish

The post How To Harvest Cilantro Without Killing The Plant? appeared first on Plant2Harvest.

Dill is a very flavorful herb that magically turns any soup, dish, or dips to taste so heavenly. Aside from its leaves and stems, the seeds of the dill is also used in many culinary purposes such as in breads, pickles, salads, etc.

If you have your own dill plant, the better! But, wait, do you know how to properly harvest it without killing the plant? If your answer is no, don’t worry because harvesting dill is not that complicated and any amateur gardener will easily get the hang of it. 

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Growing Conditions

Dill is not only a good use for plenty of dishes, soups, stews, dips, and salads but it is also known to be very beneficial in the garden. Aside from the fact that it attracts valuable insects that improve your garden, it is also easy to grow and maintain so beginner gardeners will easily get the hang of growing dill in their garden.

You can grow dill both in the garden or in a container indoors. Whichever method you prefer, take note of these growing conditions that you need to consider when growing dill.

1. Weather Conditions

If you are growing dill in warmer areas, you can start growing dill during the autumn and winter, meanwhile it’s best to plant dill before the last hard frost in relatively cooler areas. Dill can tolerate temperatures as low as 25 degrees F but the soil needs to be to be warmer at 70 degrees F.

2. Sun Exposure

Make sure that your dill receives enough sunlight, preferably full sun for at least 8 hours a day. Dill can tolerate partial sun, however do not expect the plant to be as bushy. If you are growing your dill indoors, it is better that you place it near the window so an adequate amount of sunlight can still pass through.

3. Soil Requirements

Plant your dill in a sandy or loamy, well-drained, rich in organic matter, and slightly acidic to neutral soil that has a pH between 5.5 and 6.5. It is also important to maintain the temperature of the soil to 70 degrees F.

4. Watering

During the first phase of growing dill, you need to establish first an even and regular watering schedule, however, as the plant grows, dill prefers less frequent water supply so you might want to prolong your watering schedule until the soil is dry to touch. However, do not let the soil be completely dried or else your plant will die. Similarly, be cautious as well not to overwater your plant. Just about an inch to 2 of water will be enough.

5. Spacing

Dill tends to be very bushy, so unless you want to make a mess out of your garden or you want to give yourself a hard time during the harvest period, you need to plant the dills about 12 to 18 inches apart and the spacing rows 2 to 3 feet apart. If you are growing in a container, choose the one that is at least 12 inches deep and apply the similar rule in spacing.

6. Companion Planting

Dill attracts bees and other beneficial insects so there are plenty of plants that you could plant together with dill like cabbage, sunflower, lettuce, radish, cucumbers, eggplants, etc. Some say that tomato is also a good companion plant of dill, however, the latter also attracts hornworms that destroy tomatoes. 

Avoid planting dill near carrots, coriander, and cilantro as they are prone to cross-pollination.

Harvest Period

From the time of planting, it typically takes 70 days before the foliage reaches full maturity and 90 days for the seeds. However, as soon as the plant grows 4 or 5 leaves, you can already begin with the harvest.

Process Of Harvesting

Dill almost share the same harvesting process with other kinds of herbs. However, unlike other herbs that can only be harvested at a specific period of time, dill can be conveniently pruned anytime during the growing season. Interestingly, dill can already be harvested as soon as it already grows about 4 or 5 leaves.

Here are the steps that you should follow when making your first harvest of dill without killing the entire plant.

1. When harvesting dill, work your way from the top to stimulate growth and for the plant to flourish. Picking leaves from the top of the plant will encourage it to grow outwards rather than upwards.
2. Since dill has relatively softer stems, using a pair of garden shears will no be necessary. You can just simply snap the leaves off of the branches using your bare hands. Just be careful not to tug the stems too roughly to avoid the plant from being damaged.
3. One of the best things about dill is that it does not bother being pruned or harvested all throughout the season. For as long as the plants have green and growing leaves, you can enjoy as many dill leaves as you want.
4. However, if you intend to harvest in rather larger amounts, you might want to wait until the plant has fully matured which typically takes 8 weeks from the time of germination.
5. To make sure that your dill continues to thrive even after the harvest, be cautious not to harvest more than ⅓ of the plant. Cutting more than the recommended amount will cause your dill to wilt.
6. Another way to prevent the plant from dying is to get rid of the budding flower just before it blooms and seeds by either pinching or cutting it off. The plant will most likely die if you let the plant go to seed. 

Storing And Using

Dill is commonly made into pickles but due to its minty aroma with sweet and slightly bitter taste, it would also be a garnish or added spice to your steak, grilled salmon, and many others. It will definitely be a waste if you just let all of its flavor fade by not knowing how to properly store it. So, these are the methods that you can do to help preserve the dill’s flavor and prolong its shelf life.

A. Freeze the dill

1. After washing the dill, pat it dry using a clean cloth or paper towel. Make sure that the dill is completely dry and no moisture is retained.
2. Remove any visible brown leaves but keep the whole stem intact as chopping it will lessen its flavor.
3. Put the dill in a ziplock bag or airtight container. Squeeze out any extra air before sealing the container.
4. Keep the dill in the freezer. This method could prolong the shelf life of the dill from 6 to 12 months. 
5. When you are ready to use the frozen dill, just simply toss in the heated pot or oven; no need to defrost it beforehand. However, if you intend to use it for a non-cooked meal, say a salad, let it sit first at room temperature to thaw.

B. Put the dill in a jar

1. Quickly rinse the dill to remove any dirt or pests but do not leave it soaking as this may remove some of the flavor.
2. Cut the bottom part of the stems using a knife or a pair of scissors. This will keep your dill fresh for a longer period of time especially when soaked in water.
3. Get a medium sized jar and fill it with just about an inch of water. 
4. Put the dill inside the jar, making sure that the cut portion of the stems are touching the water.
5. Cover the jar with a lid or a plastic bag to keep the oxygen from coming in and out of the jar. Too much oxygen can brown the leaves of the dill. If you are using a plastic bag, use a rubber band to securely tighten the cover. 
6. Keep the jar in the refrigerator, preferably in the door compartment. The relatively warm temperature of this place is just enough so your dill won’t get too cold and dry out as fast.
7. Change the water every 2 to 3 days to keep it fresh and clean. Your dill should last up to 3 weeks if you use this method.

C. Dry the dill

There are 3 common ways to dry the dill and preserve its flavors. These are as follows:

1. Hanging the dill dry. Hang a bundle of dill upside down in a warm, dar, and dry place with good ventilation for about 1 to 2 weeks.
2. Using a food dehydrator. Set the food dehydrator to 95 °F and dehydrate the dill for a minimum of 4 hours or until the leaves have completely dried.
3. Drying dill in the oven. Lay flat the dill on the baking pan and set the oven to the lowest temperature. Bake the dill for roughly 40 minutes, but check every 5 minutes to avoid it from being burned.

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